Even More from Meggen

JONAH & MEA CULPA

I so enjoyed reading Jonah Lehrer’s book, HOW WE DECIDE, I had to open my big mouth and recommend it to everyone.  Now, this morning, on internet news, I find he ignored his own warnings against wishful thinking, and has quoted words he wished Bob Dylan had said, in hopes of proving a point about artistic inspiration, mendaciously embellishing his otherwise fascinating articles and books.  

“I lied,” he said when found out, and has had to resign from the staff of the NEW YORKER Magazine.  His publisher is now flushing him down the toilet and it appears his career is over.  Perhaps Oprah will deliver the coup de grace.

Here’s my point: when I wrote that tomatoes cost $3.50 per pound in the supermarket here in Meggen, I erred.  I later discovered it was per kilogram, which is 2.2 pounds.  It was an unintentional mistake and I deeply regret having misled my friends on that score.  

It doesn’t make Switzerland any cheaper, however.  Listen: a friend from Geneva came up to visit on Sunday and we went to the best place in town for lunch.  We had fish from the lake, prepared two ways, in champagne sauce and a la Provencal, both of which were absolutely delicious, plus a local white wine that hit the spot.  He started with a bowl of leek and potato soup, I, a simple green salad; no dessert.  When the bill ($210) arrived,  we were shocked to find they’d charged us $2.50 for half a liter of tap water.  Yes, water from the faucet.  It was not an error, and I'm not lying.  The waiter apologized and explained that’s what many Swiss restaurants are doing these days.  

In search of my companion’s childhood memories, we drove around the lake to the village of Weggis where we discovered a small monument with a bust of Mark Twain, who apparently took up residence there once, and declared that Weggis is the most charming places he ever lived in.

Last week, James Galway, the world-class Irish flutist who lives in Meggen, gave a week-long master class in Weggis, and i went to see the closing concert.  It was a wonderful performance, with 50 flutists playing together, including bass flutes so large they resembled drain pipes on small houses. As if that wasn’t enough, for background to the fine music, we were entertained by the tinkling bells of a flock of goats who meandered onto the grassy grounds outside the concert hall.  The most astonishing part was spotting the master wearing silver shoes, a touch I loved.

My son and grandson, who'd been visiting Spain and France, showed up in Meggen for a whirlwind visit.  We took a boat ride on Lake Lucerne and a cog-wheel train ride (45 degrees) up to the top of Mount Pilatus, 2128 meters, then down on a soaring telepherique and gondola.  It was thrilling and made me the happiest grandma in Switzerland.

I’ve been wined and dined by my Meggen friends, and I’m a kilo heavier than when i arrived.  I’ve sorely missed my daily lap swims, and have devoured way too much bread, pastry and chocolate, but living here and not eating that stuff would be criminal, in my opinion.  

Tomorrow, August 1st., at 5 o'clock, I’ll stroll down to the village square and join the locals in celebrating the Swiss National Day, with white wine, sausages, flag waving, and music - the yodeling kind, I presume.  There will be display fires set in the mountains around the village, but no fireworks.

On Thursday, I’m going to the Tessin, the Italian part of Switzerland, near Lake Como, to the country house of my friends Rosmarie and Hannes, who have finally returned from their July holiday in France.  Now, my social card is filled up, having gone from zero to bingo - and I’m flying home to West Hollywood in a week.